A Guide to caring for a pet red-eared slider turtle

 

Some of us prefer having an exotic pet over the common, trending dogs and cats. 

Some of us have the notion that turtles and tortoises or even birds are low maintenance or that you don’t have to invest as much time in them. This very notion is the reason behind illnesses in these creatures. Vets often see disease in them due to complete lack of understanding of managemental practices required for the optimum survival and well being of exotic pets.

We spoke to Dr. Shiwani Tandel, a pioneer in exotic pet and avian medicine in India to understand how to ensure that red eared sliders, which are a commonly kept turtle, are getting the best and are kept healthy. 

Here’s her advise on how to take care of red eared sliders:- 

Red eared sliders are semi-aquatic turtles. That means that they like to spend a part of their time in water and part on dry land. They are native to North America (Not Singapore/Malaysia as popularly believed). They will live for about 20 years, and grow from a dime sized turtle to a full grown adult. They are pretty sociable pets. 

Adult males tend to have a longer tail than the females. However, it isnt always easy to identify and most people do not know they have a female till she starts laying eggs. Did you know? Female turtles will lay eggs even if there is no male around? These are infertile eggs, similar to chicken table eggs!

They are omnivorous, which means they eat both vegetables and animal protein. Young, juvenile sliders require a higher percentage of animal protein and need more vegetable matter as they age.

Housing:

Size of tank should be 4ft x 2ft x 2.5ft for an adult RES.  

They need a large pool of water and a dry area they can sit on when they want to thermoregulate or bask. Providing them heat and a proper temperature is important for good health. They can be maintained in an outdoor pool of water as well, as long as you ensure it is kept safe from predators. 

The depth of water should be at least twice the length of the turtles’ carapace. (That’s the scientific name for their shell) 

Water temperature should be kept warm at 27 °C. This can be achieved using an aquarium heater. This is especially needed during the monsoon and winter. 

DO NOT KEEP TURTLES IN AIR-CONDITIONED ROOMS. 

The temperature of the basking area can be up to 35°C. Do not force the turtle to bask or swim. They decide which temperature suits them according to their physiological needs. 

UVB rays, found in sunlight, are very important for the turtles to metabolize calcium in their bodies. Natural, unfiltered sunlight is the best source. UVB lamps can also be purchased on Amazon only if natural sunlight is unavailable. UVB lamps can be placed in the basking area.

Avoid any stones/pebbles in the tank as turtles tend to swallow them, which can lead to an obstruction. (Don’t invite trouble while trying to fancy up the tank!)

If you discover or know that you have a female turtle, it is wise to provide a nest like area for her to lay eggs. Without this, she may not be able to lay eggs while still producing them leading to a condition called "egg bound". This condition often requires veterinary intervention. 

Cleaning:

Make sure to keep the tank clean. A full water change is recommended every 1 week and 20-30% water changes everyday or every alternate days.

Turtles should be fed in feeding tanks which are separate in order to reduce the cleaning frequency and maintain hygiene. This may take some time to get used to but is well worth the effort. 

Food: 

Vegetables should form 50% of the adult diet. 

Their tastes and needs change as they grow up and younger turtles will prefer to munch on animal proteins and go more herbivorous as they age. 

Dark, leafy greens like kale, romaine lettuce, bok choy, spinach, mustard greens (sarson), dandelion greens sinhaparni), beet greens, coriander, fenugreek (methi), dill (shepu) are recommended. 

Mix greens- Coarsely chopped yellow or dark orange vegetables (e.g. shredded carrots, pumpkin), bell peppers (capsicum), green beans (French beans), or broccoli of appropriate size.

Fruit like apples, melons, grapes, oranges, bananas and berries, can also be offered occasionally.

Commercial turtle food should constitute 25% of the turtle’s diet. 

Do not offer dried fish or freeze- dried blood worms to sliders. 

Animal protein should be 25% of the adult diet. This includes boiled shredded chicken, prawns, fish, live earthworms every 3 days. 

Recognising symptoms of illness in turtles.

Any of these signs seen warrant a visit to the vet. 

1. Swollen eyes 
2. Anorexia/ Inappetance.
3. Constipation / Diarrhoea.
4. Open mouth respiration.
5. Swollen legs/ body.
6. Soft shell/ disfigured shell.
7. Limping/ reluctance to walk.

         I’m sure for the ones who already have a red eared slider, there is a lot to take away from this information given to us by Dr. Tandel. Red eared sliders make for great pets if you are willing to put in the commitment and effort that is required in their upkeep.

Hopefully this helps people wanting to keep red eared sliders as pets too, because all that we hope for, as vets, is that we do not get to see ill animals as often as we do. 

Shell, yeah!

Dr. N